A
few years ago I was reading Vergil Holland's book about teaching herding.
He recommended wrapping a plastic garbage bag around the herding crook
to add a flapping noise to the crook when teaching young dogs. I thought
it was a terrific idea as all the dogs I started in herding didn't pay
any attention to me at all during the first few lessons and I needed
a way to get them to settle a bit. My problem with using Vergil Holland's
method was some of the rescues I was getting from Pennsylvania----seems
a lot of breeders over there were using plastic garbage bags to flap
at puppies to keep them in their pens and by the time I got these dogs
they were terrified of plastic garbage bags. I wanted to get a dog's
attention during herding, not scare him/her into running off to the
next county!
So
my husband and I started experimenting around with ideas for a 'training
herding crook' and ended up with using a 5' length of 3/4" diameter
PVC pipe (capped) with 1/8th cup of BBs in it to make the noise. It
doesn't make a sound like a shaker can, but more like the sound of a
rain stick.
I
really like it for herding. It's light-weight, so it's easy for me to
carry around all the time. It's inexpensive, so it's not a big deal
when it breaks (and it does break---especially when a sheep steps on
it). And, it works! The dogs pay attention when I tap it to make the
sound, it works just like a crook when I'm teaching a dog to 'go out',
and the sheep listen to the sound of it when I need to get them to move.
Then
I accidentally discovered that this training crook came in handy for
other situations. I was working with a dog and we had several people
around and all their dogs. I didn't know there was a bitch in heat in
the crowd (none of the dogs around her were reacting to her). I was
just finishing up with the dog I was working with (a trained adult intact
male) and I wasn't paying too much attention to the people and dogs
moving around, but someone had just come in the field with another trained
adult intact male. I said "thatLdo" to the dog I was working
with and WWIII broke out between him and the other male.
No
way was I going to get between these two powerful males while they were
fighting over a female! So I popped the training crook between them
and since the first 'pop' startled them, I kept popping the crook on
the ground between them and popped it on the ground at whichever dog
moved to continue fighting. It stopped the fight and moved the two males
away from each other enough that we could get leashes on them. The episode
really got me to thinking about situations other than herding that this
new training crook could be used.
It's
become a necessary tool for me in all types of training situations.
However, it can be used improperly if the person using it doesn't understand
the how & why of its effectiveness.
First
of all, it is lightweight. This is really important to me. It means
that if I mess up and inadvertently touch the dog with it, I don't harm
the dog. And, if two dogs are seriously fighting, I can swing this crook
to make it tap their heads, which really startles them away from each
other, but I'm not hurting the dogs, which could happen if I was using
a real crook.
Second
of all, it is about 5' long. This means that the place where the 'pop'
occurs is at a distance from where I'm standing. From the dog's point
of view, I am not attached to the training crook, which makes the correction
an environmental correction instead of a personal correction. So instead
of the dog learning not to do something because I am around, the dog
learns not to do something---period.
Here's
how the training crook got called the power stick
I
was at a little get-together in New York. We were having a wonderful
time! It was like a terrific family reunion picnic, except our family
connection was our Border Collies. I had the training crook with me,
just in case a squabble might break out, which can happen at any family
reunion! One of the dogs just wouldn't stop herding the other dogs.
She was obsessed about herding them and nipping at their shoulders and
hips. Her owner tried to stop her, but wasn't having much success. I
didn't think it was fair to the other dogs and I could see that they
were getting so upset that a fight was imminent. The next time the dogs
ran by me, I 'popped' the training crook on the ground in front of the
dog's shoulder, between her and the dog she was going to nip.
She
immediately stopped herding/nipping the other dogs, but none of the
dogs were upset or shutting down because of the correction I gave her.
The correction also startled all the people into being quiet. In that
quiet, we all heard the dog's owner say in wonderment, "I wish
I had that kind of power." And all of us at that event just started
calling it the power stick.
I
use the power stick predominantly in the following situations
Food-guarding.
If the dog is really serious about food-guarding, I'll pop the stick
ON the food the dog is guarding. What I prefer is to use a method of
whatever the dog has, I have something better. Which means that if the
dog is guarding a biscuit, I'll go and get a piece of cheese and toss
it on the floor near the dog. After a few times of this, the dog usually
brings the biscuit right to me and spits it out at my feet so the dog
can get a piece of cheese. But sometimes I'm working with a new dog
and I don't know the dog has guarding issues and I just need to make
the situation safe until I can set things up different to start the
"I have something better than what you're guarding" routine.
Dog
fights. Which I've already discussed.
Herding/nipping
other dogs. Which I've already discussed.
Lunging
through doorways/gates/car doors. If a dog will not stop lunging through
doorways by teaching a "wait" then I'll stand on the other
side of the doorway and I'll say wait. When the dog ignores me and lunges
through the doorway, I pop the stick in front of the dog and then pop
it again in front of the dog to push the dog back through the doorway.
I'll continue doing this until the dog starts listening. It usually
only takes about three times of doing this for the dog to pay attention.
Barking
in the crate. I'll pop the stick in front of the crate if the dog doesn't
pay attention to a "quiet" or "enough".
There
are a lot of variations of uses and also some variations of power stick
design. Bob Gallagher in Connecticut came up with using a smaller diameter
PVC, one-foot long power stick that we can toss in the air so it lands
in front of a dog. This one works by when it hits the ground, it bounces
a few times and makes the startlement noise a few times. It's great
for when a dog doesn't want to stop a forward motion when asked. And
I have a 2 1/2" version in my car for dogs who want to herd vehicles
from inside the car or want to bark and carry on somehow.
Just
keep in mind that the power stick is to startle a dog into paying attention
to what you want. After the "pop" of startlement, be sure
to tell the dog what it is you want the dog to do instead of the behavior
that earned them the "pop" in the first place. When I first
start using a power stick around a dog, I'll take some time to hunker
down, lay the power stick on the ground next to me but on my side which
is away from the dog, call the dog to me, and calm the dog with a matter-of-fact
voice. I want a dog who respects when the power stick is used, not fearing
it. I'll walk around with the power stick. I'll have it propped in corners
so they get used to seeing it. Sometimes I use a small power stick with
no BBs in it to relax a dog into becoming used to it being around (dogs
who've been beaten with sticks, crooks, brooms, etc. do have an initial
problem with my walking around with the power stick).
So,
this is the story of my power stick and how I got addicted to always
having one with me!