Biosafety in the Aviary by Ross Bishop
Although biosafety is an odd term, keeping your birds safe and secure from biological agents (pathogens) isn't. A number of factors go into keeping birds healthy, and good hygiene and proper diet are the most important. No one likes to lose a bird, and yet avian vets tell us that 75% of premature bird deaths are preventable. That is a sad statistic, especially in these days of increasingly restrictive CITES regulation and rising bird and importation costs.
As the experts have made clear to me, most people overlook some elemental and essential precautions regarding bird health. Many of the aviaries I have visited present risks to their birds. And the sad thing is that these conditions are easily remedied by the investment of a little time and cleaning. A number of the aviaries and cages I have seen are simply time bombs waiting to explode. Is yours? You will have to decide how far you want take your own program of prevention.
PREVENTING INFECTION
Because we keep birds in enclosures, we expose them to levels of toxicity not found in nature. There is no rain to periodically rinse pathogens away, and the environment is isolated from sunlight, the best disinfectant of all. In the cage or aviary, water containers, especially with mineral supplements added, are perfect breeding environments for all sorts of pathogens. Egg and other soft foods sitting in the warm sun invite salmonella, ecoli and other bacteria to grow. Bird feces on perches spread bacteria and release dangerous airborne viruses. Corners and crevices in cages and aviaries that are difficult to clean are ideal breeding places for bacteria, fungi and viruses. And, the more birds you keep together the greater the risk of infection and the easier it can spread.
In keeping birds in enclosed conditions we obligate ourselves to keep their living spaces especially clean and healthy. The foundation of biological safety is prevention, not cure. And, this is a classic situation where prevention is far better and easier than any cure. If you prevent diseases from getting to your birds it is much easier (and much less expensive) than trying to treat an infection after it manifests and spreads. So, if you take the time to simply wash cages, perches and aviaries more frequently, you will need to use strong disinfectants or veterinary intervention less often. Cleaning is the cheapest investment in bird health you will ever make.Don't wait to lose a bird or for one to get sick as a wake-up call to do a better job of cleaning and disinfecting. In order to create biosafety for your birds you need to add a layer of disinfection on top of cleaning. Many people think that if a product says that it "kills germs" it's doing a good job of protecting their birds from disease. This is not the case. There are a host of pathogens that can harm birds and soap is not going to protect them. Soap and water are great as a first line of defense, but all you are doing is removing most of the organic material and reducing the pathogenic population. But, soap does not kill many pathogens. But, since no disinfectant works well in the presence of organic debris, a thorough cleaning is essential for effective disinfection to take place. Once something is cleaned, it must be rinsed thoroughly before disinfecting to avoid a chemical reaction between the soap and the disinfectant which can inactivate the disinfectant. That's easy for seed dishes and waterers, but we are also talking about cage wire and aviary walls and floors where adequate rinsing can be difficult in a home environment. In addition to frequent cleaning, prevention also means being smart about limiting cross contamination between cages, having clean, wholesome food and water available and creating quarantine facilities for new or sick birds.
FOMITES
When I first started keeping birds I read an article by a breeder who insisted that everyone should sterilize their shoes and hands each time they entered the aviary. I had an image of people wearing "clean room suits" to visit their birds. But, that writer made a good point. It isn't just the birds or the food and water in an aviary that pose a threat. You are a risk to your birds too! In fact, everything that comes into your bird room is a potential carrier - they are called fomites. We all carry pathogens and we transmit them to our birds. And, that is especially true regarding cats and dogs in the bird room. One of the smart preventions is to pay attention to all fomites - whether your hands, a food dish or spray millet. They all can present risks. The great majority of time they are harmless, and then there is that one occasion. . .
The people who are familiar with diseases are adamant about our being especially careful to clean ourselves after being at the vet's, visiting a pet store, attending a bird show or visiting other people's aviaries. They advise that it is smart to shower and change your clothing and disinfect your shoes immediately upon returning from these places. This is another one of those situations where the experts can seem to be overly picky, but their job is to prevent the spread of disease, and the environments they are concerned about are prime sources of risk. So, pay attention to the possible carriers (the fomites) that come into your aviary. While we are talking about risks, remember that other bird keepers (who may be your good friends) pose a particular threat to your birds A considerate protocol would be for each of us to shower and also disinfect our shoes and hands before visiting a friend's aviary. New additions to the aviary also pose a potent threat. A good quarantine practice for new arrivals is essential.
Is this overkill? Maybe, but probably not. How important are your birds to you? That is the dilemma. If I had a pair of $20,000 parrots, or if I were a breeder with hundreds of birds and thousands and thousands of dollars of breeding stock, I think that being this careful would be prudent, but you have to draw a line somewhere, and I think that sterilizing my shoes when I walk into my sun room/aviary aviary. I believe that it is unfair and unethical to sell a bird with limited immunities to an unsuspecting buyer halfway across the country.
DISINFECTANTS
There is a cardinal principle to consider about disinfectants: They are toxic. That is why they work. Because they are toxic, there is always a risk in using them - if you doubt that, just read the precautions on any disinfectant label. Then, multiply those cautions by a factor of 10 for birds. Birds are far more sensitive to the environment than humans. Their respiratory systems are different and their metabolisms are much higher than ours, making them much more vulnerable to airborne toxins (chemicals), spores, bacteria and viruses. That is why miners used to take canaries into the coal mines. If the canary got sick, the miners got out.
Every disinfectant has limitations. Although there are some really nasty disinfecting materials available, their very potency carries with them the risk of doing harm. Some are safe, but not very toxic. Some have dangerous side affects. All of them vary in ease of use, the time involved for the product to do its job and perhaps most importantly, what each eliminates. You are going to need more than one kind of disinfectant to combat the different pathogens that will come into your aviary. A multi-substance approach is therefore wise because there is not a single material that will rid your aviary or cages of all dangerous pathogens.
The tough guys in the pathogenic world are the bacteria. Not only are some of them very hard to kill, but they can also mutate and become resistant to specific chemicals. Viruses tend to be a special case. Although viruses are generally fragile outside their natural environments, if you have a viral infection you will have to find a virucide specific to the type of virus affecting your birds. There are basically two kinds of viruses - lipophilic and hydrophilic. Lipophilic viruses, such as herpes and influenza, are easy to destroy, while hydrophilic (nonenveloped) viruses are more difficult to get rid of. Be sure the viricide you choose works on the virus causing you trouble.
THE DISINFECTANTS
Here are the commonly used aviary disinfectants and their major benefits and limitations:
CHLORINE sodium hypochlorite - household bleach
Bleaches are very harsh but very effective disinfectants. They attack pathogens, organic debris and living tissues equally well. Chlorine compounds are among the most potent sporicides and are also lethal to both lipophilic and hydrophilic viruses. It is one of the few disinfectants that will kill protozoans such as giardia. Bleach is cheap, deadly and readily available. However, there are three major problems to using it. Bleach creates toxic fumes as it dries which can be especially irritating to birds with their efficient respiratory systems (especially to young birds and especially through repeated exposure). Bleach must only be used with considerable ventilation and should never be used around birds. Bleach is also very rapidly inactivated by organic debris (any dirt left on the object being disinfected will interfere with the action of the free radicals, up to the point where no chlorine is left to act on the actual pathogens). So thoroughly wash anything you are going to treat first. Third, bleach is tough on metal. It will seriously shorten the life of any metal object it contacts. All objects treated with bleach must be rinsed thoroughly afterwards and allowed to dry before birds are allowed to contact them.Bleach incidentally, works best in the presence of sunlight which releases more free radicals which destroy cells, including pathogens. Bleach should be used in a dilution of 1 part bleach to 32 parts water (1/2 cup to a gallon of water). It must stay in contact for about 10 minutes to assure disinfection. It is the least expensive disinfectant available and is good for anything non-metalic that you can remove from the cage or aviary like food dishes, perches etc.
CHLORHEXADINE Brand Names: Nolvasan, Virosan
These are safe products to use routinely. They are more expensive than bleach, and although safer, according to the manufacturer, should not be used when birds are present. When applied, they must remain in contact for about 10 minutes to work effectively, and then must be rinsed thoroughly. They are effective against many but not all, bacteria and yeast (especially candida). But they are not effective against giardia, most viruses, mycobacteria spores and pseudomonas (Virosan is especially formulated to be effective against pseudomonas). Although less toxic than phenol and aldehyde disinfectants, the chlorhexidines' limitations make it less than ideal as a general disinfectant.Nolvasan is particularly good for disinfecting syringes, bowls and feeders, although it must be discarded and re-mixed daily. It is not effective in the presence of organic debris. Some aviculturists use chlorhexidine as a water additive for control of pathogens, but this is not recommended by the manufacturer, as these products were never meant for ingestion, and long term effects have not been studied.
STABILIZED CHLORINE DIOXIDE Brand Names: Oxyfresh Dent-A-Gene, Oxyfresh Cleansing Gele
Stabilized chlorine dioxide is a chlorine derivative which is a powerful oxidizing agent. It can destroy many pathogens, including bacteria, viruses, fungi and protozoa. Chlorine dioxide deactivates avian polyomavirus (a hydrophilic virus). Many studies have suggested that stabilized chlorine dioxide is a superior disinfecting agent to bleach. It is used in Europe to treat drinking water because it does not form carcinogenic by-products like bleach does. There are very few products that are both effective and can be safely used around birds, and in my opinion, stabilized chlorine dioxide is the best choice available for aviculturists today. At the present, the only stabilized chlorine dioxide products available are made by Oxyfresh.Oxyfresh Cleansing Gele' is a cleaner containing stabilized chlorine dioxide. It is excellent for routine cleaning of cages and aviaries as it will clean and provide some disinfectant protection. Plus, it is not harmful. It is also an excellent washing/soaking solution for syringes, food dishes, feeders and water containers. For hard surfaces, the solution is sprayed on and then wiped off after a 5 minute exposure.Oxyfresh Dent-A-Gene is a full strength stabilized chlorine dioxide disinfectant that is a two-part product. The two parts are mixed (and at this stage does have toxic fumes) but once stabilized is safe for use. It is however rapidly deactivated by organic debris and exposure to sunlight, so all surfaces to be treated should be cleaned first. Once mixed, a solution can be used for 7 days if sealed tightly and kept out of the light.
A spray bottle of Dent-A-Gene solution can be kept near the bird room and used on hands and shoes as fomite controller. Chlorine dioxide is also an excellent natural deodorizer. Incidentally, the fumes produced in the stabilizing stage of the Dent-A-Gene are excellent for disinfecting incubators, but do not do this in the aviary!
These products are reasonably priced, and because they are effective and can be safely used around birds they are a blessing for bird keeping. Denta-A-Gene was originally created as a disinfectant for dentists and its effectiveness is well documented. Research done at the University of Georgia comparing 7 common aviary disinfectants, supports the claim that Oxyfresh is highly effective against polyomavirus. Oxyfresh products are sold through a multi level marketing program and several avian research organizations.
HALOGENS (IODINES) Brand Names: Vanodine
Most iodine-containing disinfectants also contain a detergent, and are called "iodophors". Iodophors are compounds in which the iodine is "tamed" and are considered safe to use around birds. They have a good germicidal and anti-fungal action, but not the undesirable properties of iodine. They are also a reasonable viricide but only after prolonged exposure. They are not particularly good as sporicidal agents. They have a limited vapor production, are not affected by hard water, have a long shelf life and work well in hot or cold water. They are medium cost.Iodophores are a good disinfectant for water and food containers and aviary surfaces. Although they stain plastic and hands, when the solution has lost its brown color it's an indication to change it. For cleaning, Vanodine should be used in a solution of 1/2 fluid ounce to 1 gallon water. Vanodine needs no rinsing, is odorless and contains no alcohol or bleach. It is however, easily deactivated by contact with organic debris, is not effective against hydrophylic viruses such as polyoma, and is not effective against all strains of pseudomonas bacteria.
The manufacturer suggests that Vanodine can be added to drinking and bathing water (1/2 teaspoon per gallon ) to limit diseases spread through water and to help control disease in bird crops. (Also, disease can be passed from parent to hatchling, putting the more vulnerable hatchling at risk). However, several avian experts contacted for this article expressed serious concern regarding the effects of long term exposure to Iodophors. My advice would be to consult your veterinarian.
HEAVY DUTY DISINFECTANTS
These products are not recommended for daily use. But, it is wise to periodically make an aggressive attack on aviary pathogens. Then too, sometimes an infestation breaks out and the facility must be neutralized. In these situations the use of a material with more potency is wise. It is essential that you read all labels carefully before using these products. AND be cautioned - none of them should be used around birds, and they all will put your birds at risk if not used properly!GLUTARALDEHYDES (FORMALDEHYDE) Brand Name: Wavicide
This is a relatively new class of disinfectant. Formaldehydes are the most effective disinfectants, and can even kill bacterial spores which are often resistant to other products They will deactivate most bacteria (including mycobacteria), viruses, spores, fungi and chlamydia. They are very stable and work fairly well even in the presence of organic debris. They are effective in water of any temperature or hardness. Solutions are good for longer periods than other disinfectants, which lowers their cost per use. Their speed of killing pathogens is very fast. But they are also expensive, and have many possible side effects. They are extremely toxic to birds, both when ingested or inhaled. Any treated area must be thoroughly rinsed before allowing bird contact. This product is recommended as a last resort treatment when other products are not effective (e.g., chronic pseudomonas infections).QUATERNARY AMMONIUM COMPOUNDS Brand Names:Roccal-D, Quintacide, Parvosol, Hitor, Barquat, Merquat, Cetylcide, Cal Pro
"Quats" are a large class of disinfectants which add organic compounds to ammonia. They are effective against some types of bacteria, some viruses, and chlamydia. They are not effective against spores, mycobacteria or fungi, pseudomonas, and hydrophylic viruses such as polyomavirus. Many quats also function as a detergent, and help remove organic debris from objects, although their killing efficiency is drastically reduced in the process. They are not recommended for use on objects that will be in direct contact with birds because they leave a slimy residue on objects which is very difficult to rinse off completely, and the residue can cause respiratory paralysis and death. They may be diluted for low cost per use, but initial purchase cost may be expensive. Quats are also sensitive to water hardness. Do not use around untreated wood or other porous surfaces.PHENOLICS Brand names: One Stroke Environ, O-Syl, Avinol, Institutional Lysol
Phenolics are potent bactericides, killing a broad range of disease-causing bacteria including pseudomonas and salmonella. They are also corrosive and irritating. They are effective against fungi and some viruses. They kill fairly quickly, (within 10 minutes), and retain their effectiveness in the presence of organic matter better than most other disinfectants. Phenols are the weapon of choice against pseudomonads - the toughest critters to kill. Bacterial spores seem to be resistant to phenols, however. Phenols are very effective against lipophilic or enveloped viruses but may have some limitations against other viruses. Phenolics are especially useful for cage wire and floor disinfection, and in footbaths. When used in foot baths or heavily soiled areas, the diluted solution strength can be increased 3 to 4 fold.Some phenols work well in the presence of organic material, others do not. They are effective even in hard water; don't stain surfaces or leave residual odors, and are easily rinsed off. They are also toxic to many tissues including skin, eyes, and respiratory tract. They are very toxic to cats and reptiles. Phenols must be used with adequate ventilation, and must be rinsed from cleaned surfaces before allowing birds contact with them.
A BASIC PROGRAM
What follows is a basic program that will provide good protection for most of the pathogens likely to infect your birds. The cleaning cycles depend, of course, in your bird population, how densely and where your birds are housed. Since everyone's situation is different, adapt these suggestions to fit your needs. No general program is going to eliminate every risk, and you may want to do something more severe periodically as a preventative. You will also want something specific and stronger if you experience a particular problem.
It is important to be patient when using any disinfectant. Disinfectants do not work instantaneously. To kill pathogens and do a thorough job, many disinfectants must remain in contact from several minutes to several hours. If left for too short a time, the product won't do it's job, and if left too long, some products will damage the surface of the item being disinfected. And, keep in mind that using hot water increases the effectiveness of all cleaning agents:
DAILY PREVENTION
Food and Water Containers: Use only plastic, glass or stainless containers. These clean and disinfect much better than other materials. Buy two sets of containers so that you can use one set while the other is being cleaned, disinfected and dried. Mark them so that the containers are returned to the same cage or aviary. Wash and thoroughly clean every container, every day in hot soapy water or Oxyfresh Cleansing Gele'. Don't forget to wash the bottoms too! Rinse thoroughly. Then soak in either bleach, Vanodine, Nolvasan or Dent-A-Gene.
Bathing Water: Change bathing water frequently (every four hours is good).
Drinking Water: Absolutely change Nekton treated water daily. Before filling bird containers, especially in the morning, run water tap for several minutes. Certain bacteria, such as psuedamonas live in water pipes (especially the plastic pipes commonly used today). This bacteria does not routinely effect humans, but can be harmful to birds. As a better alternative, filtered water is safest for both you and your birds.
Soaked Seed: Treat soaked seed with a few drops of Oxyfresh Cleansing Gele' or bleach while they are soaking overnight. Rinse thoroughly.
Sprouted Seed: After sprouting, treat by soaking in a few drops of bleach or Oxyfresh Cleansing Gele' and water for 15 minutes. Rinse thoroughly.
Soft Food: Egg or other soft foods should not be left with birds any longer than four hours.
Food Preparation: Thoroughly spray all fresh produce served to birds in Oxygene Cleansing Gele'. Wait 5 minutes then rinse.
Substrate: Replace paper in cages frequently. Hands and Shoes: If you keep many birds, spray with Oxyfresh Dent-A-Gene before entering the aviary. Insist that any other aviculturists who visit do the same. Spray hands if you are feeding babies.
DURING THE WEEK
Spray exposed aviary or cage surfaces with Oxyfresh Cleansing Gele' (diluted 1Tbs. per quart of hot water) or hot soap and water. Wait 5 minutes and wipe off. This only takes a few minutes and dramatically reduces the risk of problems. At least once a week treat all surfaces after cleaning with Oxyfresh Dent-A-Gene disinfectant.
EVERY TWO WEEKS
Remove perches and scrub with stiff brush and hot soap and water or Oxyfresh Cleansing Gele'. Rinse thoroughly. Treat with bleach, Vanodine, Oxyfresh Dent-A-Gene or Nolvasan. Rinse and allow to dry thoroughly before returning to aviary. (Note: It is a good idea to have two sets of perches so you can swap sets and clean the soiled set at your leisure.)
EVERY MONTH
Cages: Remove birds from cages and scrub cages with stiff brush, soap and hot water or treat with Cleansing Gele'. Rinse thoroughly. Treat cage with Oxyfresh Dent-A-Gene, bleach or Nolvasan (for bleach and Nolvasan keep birds out of the area where chemicals are being used. Allow cage to dry thoroughly before reintroducing birds). Follow chemical manufacturer's directions carefully.
Indoor Aviaries, if birds can be removed: completely scrub all surfaces, including aviary wire with a stiff brush, soap and hot water or treat with Oxyfresh Cleansing Gele'. Rinse thoroughly. Treat all surfaces, wires, perches, etc. with Oxyfresh Dent-A-Gene. If aviary can be rinsed, Nolvasan or bleach may be used instead (for bleach and Nolvasan: keep birds out of the area where chemicals are being used. Allow aviary to dry thoroughly before returning birds).
Indoor Aviaries, if birds cannot be removed: completely scrub all surfaces with Oxyfresh Cleansing Gele' or soap and hot water. Rinse thoroughly. Treat all surfaces, wires, perches, etc. with Oxyfresh Dent-A Gene.
Outdoor Aviaries, if birds can be removed: completely scrub all surfaces with soap, a firm bristle brush and hot water or treat with Oxyfresh Cleansing Gele'. Rinse thoroughly. Treat all surfaces, wires, perches, etc. With Oxyfresh Dent-A-Gene, bleach, Nolvasan or other heavy duty disinfectant. Follow manufacturer's use and rinsing instructions.
Outdoor Aviaries, if birds cannot be removed:: Follow the directions for indoor aviary.
AUTHOR'S NOTE
When I started researching and writing this article I didn't know much about disinfectants and bird health. I decided to write it because I wanted to learn, and in the process I learned a lot! Biosafety is a complex and technical subject and I hope that I have accurately conveyed the information I gathered from a large number of sources. There are also some differences of opinion amongst the experts, and I have tried to respect those differences.In researching the article I found that several avian research organizations were recommending the use of chlorine dioxide cleaners around birds because they are both safe and effective. Oxyfresh makes the only chlorine dioxide product available at the moment. I highlighted it in the article because the research indicates it to be superior, and few aviculturist's are familiar with it. I also provided contact information because it's not all that easy to find, and because part of the profits from every sale through the 800 number goes to avian research, something we desperately need.
On a personal note, I started using Oxyfresh because the experts kept recommending it, and I wanted to find out for myself. I have been using it for a while, and I must say that it seems to be as good as it is claimed to be. In the article I tried to be fair, but the research clearly indicates superiority for chlorine dioxide. I think we'll see aviculture making a big shift toward its use in the near future. That is already happening in commercial poultry operations (where, I gather, a lot of the emphasis on it's use began).
I want to thank the avian veterinarians (especially Sam Vaughn, ABVP and Mike Treitler, DVM) and several university research people who gave unselfishly of their time and expertise to make this article possible.
OTHER NOTES
Vanodine is going through a change in distributorships at the moment and has been difficult to obtain. Don Haller, donsbirds@scescape.net, has become involved in getting the product back into circulation and hopes to have it on store shelves soon.Oxyfresh products are generally not available through catalogue or retail sources. If you send an email to ross@dsrt.com or leave a message at 1-800-999-9551, push #2, and then enter mailbox #1502041 to get more information.
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